The Bloody Big BATTLES! ruleset (BBB) for wargaming nineteenth-century battles (including Napoleonics) is over 10 years old now and continues to grow in popularity. A good thing to have done a decade ago would have been to create a set of introductory material for new players, but I didn't, so ... the purpose of this long overdue post is to make it as easy as possible for new or would-be players to get into BBB. (Also, to share the love for gaming this richly varied and fascinating period, whose battles produce such great historical games.)
This post covers:
- Online resources
- Which armies to collect
- Which figure scale to choose
- How to build your armies
- How to collect/create terrain
- How to learn the rules
- How to find other players
- Creating your own scenarios
Online resources
1. BBB's publisher is SkirmishCampaigns. See the SC website here for various useful information such as where to buy BBB and its scenario books.
Which armies should I collect?
Well, that's really up to you, isn't it! But apart from the sheer romance and emotional, aesthetic or patriotic appeal of your favourite army or conflict, there are some other factors you might want to consider.
1. Deployability. Those yellow-jacketed Bolivian cuirassiers look gorgeous, of course, but they only ever fought one battle. Is it worth building a Bolivian army specially for that? You'll probably get most use and therefore most value out of armies that fought a number of battles, perhaps even several wars, in basically the same uniform.
A popular triad to start with is therefore the French, Austrian and Prussian armies that all fought each other (and some others) between 1848 and 1870. From there it's easy to add Italians, Danes, Brits, Russians, Hungarians, etc as allies or enemies.
Or you could choose one of the published BBB scenario books and build armies for that: Balkan Wars, Wars in India, Napoleon's biggest battles, etc. That guarantees you a good number of scenarios, and all the scenarios have plenty of replay value, so that's a lot of potential games.
Alternatively, just go for the blue and the grey: American Civil War armies, which can fight dozens of battles against each other.
2. Size. If you are keen to get armies on the table soon, pick one of the small scenarios I'll recommend later in this post and build specifically for that.
3. What have your mates got? If your regular opponents are interested in BBB as well, check with them what armies they already have so you can collect armies to fight them, rather than duplicating. Or consult them about which war to do together and choose an army each.
4. Availability. What figure ranges are available in your preferred scale? Maybe there's a fantastically complete range of beautifully sculpted figures that will just be a joy to paint and a feast for the eye, and maybe that's more important to you than the fact that this army never actually fought much?
But this will be a minor factor for many BBB players, as BBB suits smaller scales particularly well, and in the smaller scales it is easy to use figures from other ranges as proxies if dedicated figures are lacking.
Which brings us to:
Which figure scale to choose?
Fighting big historical battles on a 6'x4' table is what BBB does best. Larger scale figures look great individually, but frankly can look a bit odd when just three or four of them on BBB's 1" bases are supposed to represent a division or even a corps. Smaller scales give a more convincing and realistic mass battle effect. Each scale has other pros and cons too. Let's look at them in detail.
28mm: There are a few players who fight BBB scenarios in 28mm. To do so, though, they scale everything up by 50% (9'x6' table, larger bases, longer ranges and movement distances). A nice solution if you have the space.
15mm: More practical than 28mm, and BBB-sized units look OK. If you already have 15mm armies, you can use them, no problem.
10mm: The Goldilocks scale? I'm committed to 6mm, but if I were to start again, I think I'd go with 10mm. Small enough for mass effect, but still large enough to recognise individual regiments and uniform details. Easier than the smaller scales for aging wargamers' eyes, too, which is increasingly a consideration these days.
6mm: My preferred scale for a long time, for multiple reasons. Apart from mass effect, 6mm's advantages over larger scales include: it is relatively cheap; takes up less storage space; is more portable; is quicker to paint; is easier to find acceptable proxy figures. That's why I've got loads.
3mm or 2mm: All the advantages I just cited for 6mm apply even more so to 3mm or 2mm. However, at those tiny scales it becomes impossible to see much apart from a couple of basic uniform colours. Even the flags are hard to paint and hard to make out. Instead of uniform details, the trick is to use different layouts of figure blocks (assorted combos of lines, columns, skirmishers and officers) to help identify different units or types of unit. If you're eager to field an army quickly, this is one good way to do it.
How to build your armies
Build to purpose! Look at the scenarios available for your chosen army and they will tell you how many troops you need. For the conflicts covered in the BBB rulebook and BBEB supplement, there are spreadsheets in the io group files that show exactly how many bases of each type are required for the individual scenarios and the total needed for a particular war:
FPW scenario size and bases required
BBEB scenario size and bases required
Make the 'Flag' and 'Skirmisher' bases distinctive so that you can identify them easily from normal gaming distance. This makes it easy to tell different types of unit apart instantly.
One useful tip: I base about half of my ordinary infantry bases in pairs, 2"x1". This makes it easier and quicker to move units, as well as producing tidier lines.
How to collect or create terrain?
BBB is intended for recreating historical battles. Historical battles need historical terrain. Historical terrain tends to be a lot more complicated than the average wargame table, so you're probably going to need to invest in some. Still, there are a few different options available.
Felt collage. Felt is cheap and versatile and comes in all the colours you could want. It's easy to cut up different greens for woods and marshes, brown or grey for roads, blue for rivers, brown or grey for towns and villages, perhaps two or three shades of green/brown for different contour levels. That's not a bad way to get started quickly. You can upgrade from there. (I have - mostly.)
Custom battlemats. I don't mean ones you buy. I mean ones you make. For a couple of alternative approaches, check out the work of my regular gaming buddies Matt and Crispin.
Matt's work can be seen on his 'Pushing Tin' website. Specifically, look at his description of how he made his Gettysburg battlefield.
Crispin's is a quicker and more functional approach. He uses heavy-duty green paper catering tablecloth like this from Venuscello that you can buy in 25m rolls. He cuts out hills from MDF and spraypaints them green to match. (As he's got about 30+ mats now, he's got enough hills that he can usually manage with the existing collection.) He applies roads, rivers, villages etc with different coloured chalks. For areas of marsh, woods, etc, he resorts to the spraycan again. You can see plenty of his work in various game reports on this BBBBlog. A typical example is his Cold Harbor battlefield here.
Yet a third way is what I used for some of my Hungary 1848 and Crimean War battlefields: getting a battlemat printed by a commercial vendor. Back in 2017 I used Pixart, as explained here, but nowadays I believe there are companies specialising in wargame battlemats who will offer this service.
Let's talk about hills. Hills are the real pain, especially once you get among some Balkans or Alps or Pyrenees. Let me just refer you to the entire essay I wrote about these a decade ago.
Making terrain. I think the best advice I can give you here is to visit the comprehensive set of terrain tips that the good people at Little Wars TV provide to help players of their Altar of Freedom ACW rules.
Buying terrain. For several years, I had a rule that I always had to buy some terrain whenever I went to a wargames show. That did significantly improve my collection. Nowadays, I think I'd simply say "buy with purpose": decide what game(s) you want to play, work out what terrain you need to get started, and buy it. One piece of advice concerning buildings in particular: buy ones a scale down from your figures (i.e., 3mm buildings for 6mm figures, etc). Remember, terrain is a good investment - your woods, hills or roads can serve convincingly on far more battlefields than any one army you might build.
These are just a few pointers that barely scratch the surface of what there is to say about terrain. It is important, as the ground shapes the battle, so you want to get it right and have it look good. It's worth some time, money and effort to achieve that.
How to learn the rules
There are a few particular scenarios I always recommend to new players as 'training scenarios' for learning the rules before you get stuck into Gettysburg or Solferino. They are all reasonably small and quick to set up; don't involve too many troops or take too long; not all the troops are committed initially, so players have a chance to get to grips with the rules without being overwhelmed; the armies are asymmetrical, which both helps to bring out some of the features of the rules and makes for fun games; and they are entertaining little tactical puzzles in their own right. These favourites include:
Montebello (1859) - Austrians vs French in the Second Italian War of Independence;
First Bull Run (1861) - first big battle of the American Civil War;
Langensalza (1866) - Prussians trap the Hanoverian army during the Austro-Prussian War;
Loigny/Poupry (1870) - Republican French vs Germans in the Franco-Prussian War;
Velestino (1897) - Ottomans attacking Greeks in the Greco-Turkish War.
Apart from Loigny/Poupry (which is in the BBB rulebook and is the biggest game on this list), all these scenarios can be found in the io group via the hyperlinks. Note that you will need to join the group to gain access to the scenarios.
How to find other players
Join the BBB io group or Facebook page and ask there. You might find players near you.
Join your local club and persuade your friends there to play.
Come to a BBB Bash Day convention.
Online! Alan Millicheap has translated a number of scenarios to Tabletop Simulator. Ask on the BBB io group or Facebook page to find a willing opponent.
Creating your own scenarios
Not as hard as you might think. Essentially, if you get the troops and terrain right, you'll be pretty close.
Try to set the troop, time and ground scales so the battle fits onto 6'x4' and lasts 8-12 turns, with 10-20 infantry or cavalry units a side.
If the battle had some unusual feature that needs a special rule, look at existing scenarios to see if there's a similar situation with a special rule you can adapt.
Often the trickiest part of scenario design is to set the victory conditions. The standard BBB formula is a tried and tested one: designate perhaps 6 or 7 locations on the battlefield as Objectives and decide how many side A needs to hold at game end to draw or to win. Good locations to choose include key defensive terrain along one or both sides' battle lines, or perhaps along a second defensive line; also, locations whose capture would represent an attacker threatening flanks or lines of communication or retreat. Using the historical outcome as the 'par score' for a draw is a good rule of thumb.
And, of course, ask for advice on the BBB io group or FB page. Lots of helpful people there!
That's it for now
Lots more that I could say but I hope this is enough to get you started. Sorry it isn't perfect, but as it's 10 years late already, I figured publish and be damned. Questions always welcome, especially from new or would-be players, so if there's anything I haven't covered that you'd like to know about, get in touch.
Happy gaming!
***
This is one in a series of essays, "Reflections on Wargaming", exploring various questions about the hobby. The full list can be found here.